There are often occasions when a knitter or crocheter wishes to use a different yarn to the one specified in a pattern. Either the pattern that they want to use requires a yarn which causes them an allergic reaction, or they have a supply of a particular yarn, but no pattern for it. This need not be a daunting prospect. With a basic understanding of yarns and how they are used, it is easy to substitute or combine yarns.
Yarn Weights
Usually a pattern or a ball band will give some indication to the yarn weight, such as “double knitting” or “sock yarn”.
The Craft Yarn Council of America gives details of the yarn weight standards. These are a useful starting point.
The recommended needle size is also given on most ball bands, and will be included in all patterns. Again, the yarn weight guide will help the crafter understand what weight of yarn they are dealing with.
If, however, there is simply a supply of yarn with no information, then the best course of action is to compare the yarn with other yarns in the stash, and see which is close. This will give a guide for the tension swatch.
Tension Swatch
It is vital to knit or crochet a tension swatch and it is advisable to make more than one. If you’re making yarn fit a particular pattern, then make your tension swatches until you have found the needle or hook size which produces the right gauge for the pattern.
However, if you have a supply of yarn, and you’re trying to find a pattern to make with it, work several swatches using different size hooks or needles. By doing this, it is possible to see how the finished fabric drapes, according to the various needle or hook sizes. The crafter can see which they like best and then make or design a pattern to suit.
Yarn Quantities
Another thing to consider when substituting yarn is to make sure that you have enough for the pattern that you want to make.
Different fibres have different densities. Taking for example double knitting weight yarns, a 100% wool yarn may have 124m per 50g, a 100% cotton yarn may only have 92m per 50g, whereas an acrylic yarn may have 140m per 50g.
Many of the calculations in yarn substitution will involve an element of estimation, but, if, for example, an original pattern is using an acrylic yarn, and it is to be substituted by a 100% wool yarn, simply buying the same number of balls is like to lead to running out before the end. The different densities will also affect the drape of the fabric and so may also change the way that a finished garment looks.
Most knitters and crocheters substitute yarns at some point. As can be seen, with just a little preparation, including the essential tension swatches, it is a relatively straightforward thing to do.
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