Although it is often mentioned in relation to knitting, felt is itself a stand-alone fabric. In fact, it predates knitting altogether. Felt was made by simply shearing wool or another fiber off an animal and scrubbing it until it stayed together. From these humble beginnings comes the whirlwind of felting ideas present all the way into in the 21st century.
Felting has a long but simple history as well as interesting mechanics. It’s not necessary to use wool alone to felt; wool yarn can be combined with others for fantastic results. Felting’s popularity within knitting has only made it more accessible.
Felting Terms
Animal fibers’ inherent characteristics of crimp and scale are what allow fibers to bond together into dense felt fabrics.
- Crimp: Crimp is a characteristic of wool and other animal fibers. It refers to the waviness of the strand. Wool has a high crimp factor; this is one of the reasons it felts so very well.
- Scale: Scales are another characteristic of animal fibers. Fiber scales, ridges on an animal fiber, are similar to fish scales. Scales react when plunged into hot water; the overlapping scales open up and grab onto neighboring fibers and interlock.
Further scale mixing can be achieved by making the scales slippery with the aid of a sudsy, soapy solution and by rubbing the scales together through agitation. The new positions are permanent.
A Concise Felting History
Felt fragments have been found dating back at least 8,000 years. While no official record exists of felt’s origins, it is believed that shepherds may have noticed dense mats of wool on their sheep, especially in areas like hindquarters that are subjected to extra moisture and abrasion. Or, perhaps workers lined their boots with fleece, and the friction from walking combined with the sweat from feet formed the fleece into felted liners.
Mankind quickly developed many methods for making and controlling felt; it became useful for tents, liners for saddles / boots / armor, warm, dry hats and other clothing. The industrial revolution developed use of felt in manufacturing processes.
The 21st Century has certainly seen an increase in the popularity of felt, especially among knitters. Felted accessories make nice personal touches to both handmade items and store-bought gifts.
The Importance of Swatching in Felting
Swatching is not every crafter’s favorite task, and it is tempting to skip it altogether. However, felting should never be counted on to perform as expected. It is vitally important to swatch when felting, mainly because felting is not very precise. Shrinkage varies with type of wool, tightness of stitch gauge and process of felting.
Modern Knitted Felt
While traditional felt is made from pre-fabricated fibers such as roving wool, knitters today have discovered how to felt items that have been knitted from yarn. Large needles and multiple strands work up quickly into knitted fabrics that shrink and condense to thick, impermeable mats that hold shape well and resist moisture.
“Non-Traditional” Felting Materials
Though wool works best, it does not have to be used exclusively in felting, opening up limitless possibilities. Wool core yarns that have some amount of rayon plied into the wool make a dense fabric that resembles Persian lamb. Thicker, denser felt can be obtained by holding a strand of wool / rayon yarn with a strand of 100% wool yarn.
Related Article: How to Felt in Knit & Crochet
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